Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Sotek Green

Product Information

Shadow’s Edge 6mm Deep Yellow Flowers. I think the grass on these look a little fake but that’s why I build up so much stuff around them. The Tyranids are a faction that is known for their biomorphs and organic look. Sotek Green would be great for painting the carapace, chitin and other organic parts of the models. Beanith: This is going to be one of those things where I try out new things and grow as a painter isn’t it? Umber Ink Wash (this is a custom mix of Umber Ink 1:1 with matte medium + about 4 drops of flow improver to mimic contrast paint- Sub Contrast Wyldwood) My method of painting Necrons is simple. It’s made up of a few simple steps that when added together looks great.

Once the Agrax Earthshade wash dries, I highlight the bones and beak with Rakarth Flesh again, and then do some edge highlighting with Reaper Polished Bone to get an even lighter shade. I edge highlight both the weapons and the scale mail with Ironbreaker or Rune Fang Steel, whichever happens to be closer to me when I’m looking for paints.I also dot the eye with Reaper Pure White. So you will notice a couple of potentially odd looking choices for washes in the blue for the cloak and purple for the orange, this is me making use of a rough interpretation of colour theory. The idea is basically that when you want to make shadows rather then just darkening the colour, you can instead shift towards blue which makes a more natural transition. In this case orange could instead go to red since that is just reducing the yellow content of orange, but I skipped to purple to get a touch more more contrast. Tzaangors act as cheap rank-and-file troops for Tzeentch-dedicated forces, though they have several fast, powerful elite units such as the Tzaangor Shamans, Tzaangor Enlightened, and Tzaangor Skyfires.

Black

Fabius Bile: Clonelord is the sequel to Primogenitor, and while it’s really a Fabius Bile story, it does feature Trazyn the Infinite in a major role, and details how he came into possession of one of his greatest prizes. I gradually mixed a bit more of the next colour into the highlights typically in one or two steps, be careful to leave your self enough space to get them all in there as it is very easy to either entirely obscure the previous layer or create a odd looking transition. Sorry about the blurry picture, but it should give you the idea of where I place the Karak Stone, otherwise these are just some basic highlights. For the orange robes I slowly stepped colours up similarly to the cloak, but for the armor I only used Fire Dragon Bright and Bestigor Flesh for simplicity. Well well, once again you come to me to ask for advice on how to paint Drukhari? Oh don’t worry, prospective and current Archon’s of the Dark City, I will guide you. I hope you have your most hammy evil monologues at the ready and a glass of wine to swirl menacingly, you’ll need it. Sotek Green paint from Citadel Colour is a high-quality acrylic paint that is perfect for miniature painting. It has a rich pigmentation that provides excellent coverage, making it a great foundation color for any miniature painting project. The paint has a matt finish that gives miniatures a natural and realistic look. The paint is easy to use and perfect for beginners. It can be used as a base coat and is a great addition to any painter’s palette. What armies to paint with Sotek Green

So the general scheme – and I’ve decided they’ll be Novokh – is to do deep red shoulder plates, chest armor, and heads for the core warriors, with more red plating for higher-ranking models in the army. I’ve decided to do the heads on my characters with a bone color, because it looks bad ass and gives them more of an undead feel. The cape and hieroglyphics on the chest were given a base coat of Polished Gold. Then an all over wash of Reikland Fleshshade. Next an edge highlight with Silver. For the finished photo I gave the recesses in the cape another careful fill of Reikland for some more definition. Then the circles were painted with a combination of grey and Monument Metal Medium, then a dot of white and Metal medium at the top. The forehead stripe was done with a base coat of Pallid Wych Flesh, then Metal Medium and Wych Flesh mix. A final highlight at the brow and top of head was done with Metal Medium and white mix.You could also probably use this to paint an ancient Spartan army, but it’s probably the wrong shade of red for the Battle of Mantinea in 418 BCE or whatever. Any metals on the bases were done in Balthazar Gold or Leadbelcher depending on whether they were ornamental or industrial, and washed/drybrushed appropriately. Finally, the bases themselves were painted with two thin coats of Zandri Dust, ready for PVA and sand. With that, the models were complete!

I often quite enjoy this step in a scheme, when the most time consuming parts are done and you get the opportunity to just do a flurry of small highlights all over the place and see lots of impact from little effort. The final step on the necron themselves is to do the extreme edge highlights, I used a common colour for each of metallics and conventional paints to help tie them all together. The steel is a new recipe for me using Scale 75 Eclipse Grey > Scale 75 Anthracite Grey > Scale 75 Behring Blue > GW Fenrisian Grey > Scale 75 White For my Drukhari, I wanted to make clear that these are three separate subfactions who cooperate, and that they aren’t really a single army. To that end, I chose some color schemes that stand out next to one another, but have a coherent threat that joins them together. Mix Pure Copper and Silver about 1:1 and apply to to the areas where most light would catch, under eyes, along cheekbones, upward facing parts of arms, feet, and legs.If you are looking to save time it’s worth remembering with stuff like this that even basic layering like this blends together very well on the table top. Even in close up shots kind of gets smoothed out when you have sharp contrasts like the recess colours and edge highlights going on. The other major difference between my characters and my rank-and-file jerks is that my character Necrons have orange hyperphase weapons. These took a bit of trial-and-error to figure out before I got a process for doing them that wasn’t particularly hateful. The wings can get some final edge highlights but that isn’t super necessary, especially if you have more than one model of these to paint. I glued these into their base, and that later made getting a brush to the inside of the cloak a pain. Even if you’re planning to glue them down, I’d push-fit till the cloaks are done. Finally, zenithally airbrush on Citadel Nurgling Green at about a 45 degree angle. I’m not super great at keeping the Zandri dust visible, but you should aim to keep some of it in the middle to get a good gradient.